Best Collection of Vintage Rolex Watches
Whether you're interested in purchasing your first vintage Rolex for daily wear or you're looking to start a collection of vintage watches, this guide will take you through some of Rolex's most collectible vintage watches.
We've put together a collection of vintage Rolex models that we think are both collectible and likely to appreciate in value in the coming years.
Rolex SubmarinerThe 1957 Submariner Ref. 5508 may not be the entry-level model in your collection of vintage Rolexes, but it is an excellent example of a Rolex watch with some unusual features that are highly sought after by collectors. Over time, the value of this model continues to rise.
The Rolex Submariner was officially launched in 1954 at the Baselworld Watch and Jewelry Show. Even the most optimistic Rolex executives could not have predicted just how popular and sought-after it would become in the decades to come. Its appeal becomes even greater when it's associated with British spy James Bond.
Collectors often look for models that lack some of the features that make modern Submariners more rugged and damage-proof, such as crown guards and ceramic bezels. The Submariners of the 1950s did not have crown guards, making them the Submariner model worn by James Bond in the first four 007 films. Since this model was made around 1959, it was one of the last models produced without a crown guard and the first Submariner model to feature a "square" font on the bezel.
Even better, this Rolex Submariner 5508 is equipped with a 1530 chronometer caliber. It was introduced in 1957 and is in excellent condition, with the original brass instead of the Teflon found in later models.
One of the most exciting elements of this watch is the extremely rare “exclamation point” dial. This is a subtle but important element, where a small dot appears above the 6 and below the baton index. This is Rolex's code for changing the lumens used on watches to reduce the radium content. Further enhancing its value are the highly desirable signs of aging in the "ghost border," which has bleached from black to gray over time, like a beloved pair of Levi's jeans.
This is a first-rate original example of a rare 1959 Ref. 5508 features the highly sought-after exclamation mark dot dial and ghost bezel elements. This vintage Rolex Submariner makes an excellent investment and family heirloom. Although the price of vintage Rolexes has increased significantly recently, we believe fine examples like this are still undervalued.
Rolex Prince Jump HourThe Art Deco-inspired Rolex Prince watch, while not as widely recognized as other Rolex models, holds immense significance in the brand's heritage. It played a key role in elevating Rolex to the high end of luxury watchmaking nearly a century ago.
The original Rolex Prince watch was renowned for its exceptional timekeeping accuracy. Many Prince models come with two dials, making them particularly popular among doctors who can easily time their patient's pulse using the easy-to-read second hand located at the bottom of the dial. Hence, it earned the nickname "Doctor's Watch".
The Rolex Prince Jump Hour was the world's first truly digital watch, featuring an aperture at the top of the dial and an hour wheel. By looking at the Rolex Prince Jump Hour, you can see the red "10", indicating the time is 10:30 minutes and 30 seconds. The Prince Jump Hour was discontinued in the late 1940s as the Art Deco style fell out of fashion, but production was resumed in 2005.
Crafted in extremely rare 18-karat yellow and white gold, this special model is a chronometer version that remains in its original, unrestored and untouched condition. The movement inside this timepiece is of exceptional quality. Launched by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in December 1930, the Rolex Extra Prima was a 15-jewel hand-wound movement used only in Rolex's highest quality watches of the time. It represents an exceptional example of a truly historic watch, cementing its place among the more coveted vintage Rolex watches.
A note about rectangular cases: When purchasing a vintage rectangular or square watch, it is crucial to ensure that the case shows no signs of wear, fatigue cracks, or pinholes, especially around the hinges and corners. These types of cases are prone to wear in these areas and are therefore very rare.
Although popular for its practical functionality, its sophisticated Art Deco design lends itself better to a more formal or dressy watch. With its historical significance in Rolex history and its unique design, the Rolex Prince definitely deserves a place in your vintage Rolex collection.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-KingThe Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-King perfectly combines aviation tradition, elegant design and powerful functionality. It is a timepiece cherished by watch enthusiasts and collectors and continues to uphold Rolex's reputation for creating exceptional timepieces. Introduced in 1945, the Rolex Air-King is a member of the Rolex Air collection, crafted to pay tribute to the heroic achievements of the Royal Air Force pilots during World War II.
Rolex's Oyster Perpetual is the oldest model still in production in the brand's history. It has been the cornerstone of their production since the 1930s. The Oyster Perpetual Air-King is a great entry-level vintage Rolex watch. The Air-King Oyster Perpetual has a few differences from the classic Oyster Perpetual, most notably in the outline of the case. The Air-King is approximately 2mm larger than the Oyster Perpetual (approximately 13.25mm). This is because the Air-King has 2 cases, an inner case and an outer case.
Another significant difference is movement. The Air-King is powered by the Milgauss 3131 movement. This is because the Air-King was originally designed for pilots flying long distances, where precise timing is crucial. Rolex's patented blue Parachrom hairspring enhances resistance to magnetic fields and provides exceptional accuracy and reliability.
This Air-King is a superb example of a vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King that is ready to wear and suitable for everyday use. If properly cared for, it will make an excellent investment or heirloom. As the years go by and the world market for vintage gold Rolex watches continues to expand, prices will continue to soar like the King Air itself. That's why we believe the Oyster Perpetual Air-King is one of the best vintage Rolex watches to collect.
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Rolex Datejust Rotary FigureThe launch of Rolex Turn-O-Graph is of great significance to the development of Rolex and overall watchmaking innovation. Turn-O-Graph reference number. The 6202 was the first watch released in 1953, followed by the Datejust in 1945, about a year before the Submariner in late 1953/early 1954.
The Turn-O-Graph was Rolex's first sports watch, with a stainless steel case typically 36 mm in diameter, although variations in larger case sizes have appeared over the years. It has a screw-down crown, which ensures water resistance and protects the movement from moisture and dust.
One of the characteristic elements of the Turn-O-Graph is the rotating bezel with graduations. The bezel can rotate in both directions and is usually marked with a 60-minute scale or hour markers, allowing the wearer to track time like a chronograph or measure elapsed intervals without having to purchase a complex chronograph movement. This successful innovation was quickly adopted by many brands after Rolex launched it.
Reference Ref. 6202 was replaced in 1954 by the heavily modified Reference Ref. 6309, which actually returned the Turn-O-Graph as a date function to the Datejust series. A Cyclops window was added along with a new engine turning bezel with markings every five and ten minutes, which can be seen on Turn-O-Graphs from that time on.
Turn-O-Graph model ref.1625 was introduced in 1958 and continued in production until 1977. 1625 is an excellent example of a rare Datejust Turn-O-Graph watch in excellent condition. This example is an early, extremely rare and collectible 18 karat rose gold Turn-O-Graph, complete with an original Rolex 18 karat rose gold bracelet. It's so rare that we've never seen the pink gold Turn-O-Graph in its original pink gold bracelet before.
The Original Premium "Officially Certified Superlative Chronometer" 26 Jewel Caliber 1560 movement is highly regarded for its extreme precision, reliability and robustness. It was also the first movement to feature instant date change at midnight. Finding a pink gold Turn-O-Graph this early is rare, but finding one with an original pink gold bracelet is almost unheard of. Vintage gold Rolex Datejust watches are highly collectible and the rarity of this watch means its value will always remain strong.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-DateThe Day-Date has become one of the most legendary watches of all time, and its reputation is well deserved. First released in 1956, it was dubbed the "President" because it was worn and loved by royalty, presidents, and numerous celebrities. It was worn on the wrist by several U.S. presidents, including Lyndon Johnson and John F. Kennedy. Rolex is known for its marketing savvy, and in 1966, Rolex emphasized this connection to the Oval Office in an advertising campaign for this model.
The Day-Date was the final masterpiece of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf and is considered by many to be the pinnacle of his work. In Wilsdorf's view, day and date are the two most useful functions of a watch. In his pursuit of excellence, he ultimately designed a waterproof self-winding watch with a jumping calendar system. Updates to the movement and dial changes followed, and for many years the model was regarded as a Rolex.
As Day-Date grows in popularity, so does the opportunity for personalization, and a huge number of dial options emerge: from exquisite gemstones such as rosewood, onyx, to brightly colored so-called "Stella" dials, All are available. The final area of luxury design is the bejeweled Day-Date. From the delicate diamond dial markers to the completely frozen case. It's likely this extravagant customization that has made Rolex so ubiquitous as a luxury brand that it has almost become a currency of its own.
This specific example of the 1958 Day-Date Ref. 1803 18 karat gold is a beautiful illustration of the museum's collectible Day-Date. It falls in the mid-range price range, certainly an investment piece, but not beyond the dreams of most collectors. Powered by the Cal.1556 26 Jewel chronometer movement, original sunburst dial and intact 18-karat gold case, it has lost none of its charm over the years.
Vintage gold day-date watches are highly collectible and the rarity of this watch means its value will always remain strong. A Day-Date watch is an excellent financial investment and an item to wear, treasure and enjoy. It is a very practical vintage watch that is not only a perfect evening watch but also an accurate and reliable timepiece for everyday use.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual DatejustLaunched in 1945, the Rolex Datejust revolutionized the watch industry as the world's first self-winding watch with a date function. The “just” in Datejust stands for “just in time,” highlighting the watch's ability to advance the date instantly at midnight without any delay. It has won widespread acclaim for its exceptional waterproofing capabilities and exceptional accuracy and reliability.
The Datejust debuted in what was considered a large size at the time, measuring 36 mm in diameter (excluding the Rolex screw-down crown). It also features a central seconds hand, unlike the more common small seconds dial. This timeless design quickly became a symbol of style and excellence, retaining minimal design changes over more than 70 years of production and development.
In 1956, Rolex introduced the Date, which at the same time continued to remain Rolex's premier men's apparel. However, early Datejust models are rare and highly sought after, and cost more than the Day-Date.
This Ref.6105 18 carat 1952 watch is a masterpiece of timeless style, simplicity and elegance. Its rare dial with “dagger” and “spearhead” hour markers is extremely hard to find and highly sought after. It is ivory in color and contrasts nicely with the gold case. With its original “Lance” hands and yellow central seconds hand, as well as its rare red date wheel, this watch exudes the charm and elegance of the 1950s.
It houses the venerable Rolex reference reference 6105, is powered by the venerable Rolex chronometer-grade Cal.A296 movement, and is adorned with 18 jewels. Such exceptional quality and impeccable condition are rare for early Datejust watches, making this particular piece a true gem from an early production year and would make a smart addition to any vintage Rolex collection.
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These examples of the most collectible vintage Rolex watches should have you daydreaming about your dream vintage Rolex collection all day long. To stay up to date with the latest vintage watch news, subscribe to our weekly newsletter and be the first to see our new stock before anyone else.
If you are looking to purchase a vintage Rolex, we are always happy to assist you with vintage gold watches. Don't worry if the specific model you want is already sold, just contact us and we will be happy to provide you with the model you are looking for.
